LOA: 34' 7"
LWL: 28' 9"
Beam: 10' 7"
Draft: 3' 10" (designed, probably about 4' 2" fully loaded)
Displacement (estimated): 25,000lbs
Sail Area: 626 sq. ft (working), 824 sq. ft. (total, including fisherman
& topsail)
Sails carried:
- jib (forward-most sail)
- forestaysail (or staysail or jumbo or club-footed jib)
- foresail (gaff-rigged sail set behind the foremast)
- mainsail (gaff-rigged sail set behind the mainmast)
- main gaff topsail (triangular sail set on top of main gaff, rarely
used)
- fisherman (four-sided sail set above foresail, between tops of masts)
- gollywobbler (a large version of the fisherman, for light air, not
often used)
- drifter (or genoa, replaces the jib)
Orbit II is a gaff-rigged schooner, a Tom Colvin "Tamarack"
design. Her first owner, Roy Simmons, was also her builder. Roy lived on Hood Canal near Union, across from Hoodsport, Washington State. Building began
in 1973, and Orbit II was launched in 1977. The second owner, Steve French, bought her in Washington State, and sailed her for nine years,
mostly in Central America. I was the third owner. I bought her in Baltimore in 1995, and did
a refit between 1997 and 2000.
Designer's Notes (excerpts from "Cruising Designs"):
Tamarack was developed for spacious living aboard and ocean cruising
comfort in less than 36 feet of length. She is of extremely heavy displacement
yet reasonably economical to build. Smallest of my aft-cabin designs,
she was based on a larger, earlier design developed for a circumnavigation
with a large crew. Despite their bulk, this group of vessels is handy
under sail and likes heavy weather, yet performs well in light airs.
A couple have been built as ketches, but this is not an ideal rig for
the hull--an instance where the schooner and ketch are not easily interchangeable.
In the ketch rig, the boom extends several feet beyond the transom,
which I do not like, and it is very difficult to get enough sail on
her without resorting to extremely high masts; whereas, the schooner
accomplishes this easily with topsails and a fisherman staysail.
While this vessel was laid out for six, with two sleeping in the midship
engine room, she would be more comfortable laid out for four, with the
engine room shorter, cabin trunks the same, and more room added fore
and aft. For auxiliary power, a heavy-duty, slow-turning 10 HP Sabb
is a good choice.
A vessel like this is ideal for retirement living, even better for
semi-retirement--small enough to handle easily and maintain, yet still
large enough for the kids to visit aboard for weekends or vacations.
Quite often, the tendency is toward acquiring a larger vessel with the
result that the boat rarely leaves the dock except with a large crew.
Construction: Hull, deck and cabin sides are 10gauge Corten steel,
masts are solid, painted Douglas Fir, booms and gaffs are varnished Sitka
Spruce. Cabintops are plywood (1/2" & 1/4" BS1088 marine
plywood over laminated mahoghany beams).
Insulation is fitted pieces of extruded polystyrene (Styrofoam Pink),
mostly 2" thick (R10) under the deck and against the hull. Cabin
sides are solely insulated with Thermseal (a paint with ceramic particles
embedded in it, with an estimated R-value of about 0.5).
Interior layout is different from the plans.
It is basically built of 3/4" plywood with panelling (possibly teak...I
really can't tell) on top. The cabin soles are painted plywood (formerly
carpet), which looks reasonable, but the paint wrinkles when hot coffee
is spilled on it...bare wood would be better.
The galley is forward, which works well enough...the fumes of the diesel
stove are farther away from the helm, where people usually are when sailing.
There are two seats/berths in the forward cabin, two berths in the aft
cabin convert to a double in port.
Engine: 10 HP Sabb, single-cylinder, hand-start marine diesel.
Top speed under power is 5 knots, cruising speed is about 3 knots. It
is a very reliable engine that is adequately sized for getting in and
out of port, motoring in a flat calm, and charging batteries (75 amp alternator)....but
is underpowered for most other purposes.
Steering: Edson worm gear. A Windpilot Pacific Plus windvane/auxiliary
rudder looks after self-steering under sail, off the wind (lashing the
helm works for self-steering on the wind) when it is working, and at other
times, acts as a skeg that makes manoeuvering far more difficult. There
is no autopilot at the moment.
Electrical:
- 75Amp alternator on engine with Hehr 3-stage regulator
- Flexible solar panel (rated at 55 watts, puts out up to 2Amps)
- 30"x26" rigid solar panel with charge controller
- One 220AmpHour (4D) AGM battery
- Two inverters, one (300W) for computers, one (700W) for tools
- Link 10 Emeter
- Davis MiniMega Anchor Light
- Aqua Signal Series 40 Tricolor/Anchor/Strobe light at main masthead
- Aqua Signal Series 41 Stern light (lost matching bow light in a gale)
- Forespar steaming/foredeck light
- Interior lighting a mixture of electrical and kerosene
Navigation:
- Micrologic GPS, permanent mount (used very often)
- Garmin GPS45 hand-held (rarely used)
- Garmin GPS50 hand-held with power cable (occasionally used ondeck)
- Furuno 17" radar (used occasionally, generally only when motoring)
- Dolphin 360 depthsounder (old flashing light type, difficult to read,
used rarely)
- lead line (used often near shore, very relable)
- sounding pole/boathook (generally used as sounding pole only after
going aground)
- Davis Mark 75 plastic sextant (not really used)
- Ritchie steel boat compass
- pelorus (for taking bearings, since compass is not flat-topped)
Communications:
- VHF radio
- Sitex SSB (shortwave) receiver/weatherfax decoder (generally only
used for voice weather forecasts when offshore)
- Class B EPIRB
- Apelco handheld VHF with dead, difficult to find battery
Galley: A Dickinson Adriatic diesel stove doubles as a cabin heater
in winter. This stove works best in port, as under sail it tends to back
and fill the cabin with smoke and the decks with "Dickinson Dirt"
(horribly messy soot). There is an Optimus kerosene stove for use during
the summer or when the Dickinson is being difficult (the kerosene stove
has its own difficulties).
A Rubbermaid cooler is used as an icebox when ice is available. A small
Igloo thermoelectric cooler promises to be useful when motoring (solar
panels are not powerful enough to drive it).
Dinghy: 7'6" plywood pram, reinforced with fibreglass,
fitted with positive styrofoam flotation. Inflatable canopy and two
immersion suits stored with it for use as a lifeboat.
Anchors:
- 20kg (45lb) Bruce (main anchor, 48m 8mm chain, 200' 5/8"
nylon)
- 80lb Fisherman (hard to pull
up, but the most reliable, 60' 3/8" chain, 150' 5/8" nylon)
- 27lb Fortress (Danforth-type made of alloy, 25' 5/16" chain,
200' 1/2" nylon)
- 35lb Danforth Hi Tensile
- 8lb Danforth dinghy anchor
- small grapnel anchor
Safety Equipment:
- good anchors
- Immersion suits
- Radar reflector (Firdell Blipper)
- Class B EPIRB
- watermaker (hand-powered, PUR Suvivor 06)
- tough, positive flotation dinghy with inflatable canopy (from a Tinker
liferaft/dinghy)
- many PFDs, Mustang gear, drysuit, wetsuits, SOLAS flares, whistles,
mirrors, etc
- fire extinguishers, smoke detector, etc
- first aid kit (Trans-Ocean Medical Sea Pak)
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